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I have just bought a 70 AMX that had a new motor installed. I picked the car knowing it has no oil pressure. I took the oil filter housing off and it looks like soem might have put silicone on the gasket that blocked some of the holes. I've cleaned this up and I may be lucky enough that they never run the motor long enough to hurt it.Is there any trick to priming the pump. I've took air and there seems to beno restrictions blowing thru the block.Any tips would be appreciated, going to try reassembling pump today.Thanks
Doug
donsjave
12-11-2004, 09:48 AM
The first thing you should do is to check tolerances of the gears inside the pump. Check a service manual from AMC or a repair manual, it should tell you. The next thing is to make sure that there is no obstruction between the oil pickup tube in the oil pan to the gear setup in the oil pump. This can be accomplished usually be compressed air. Make sure that there is an oil bypass spring and plunger and that it is the correct one. I have seen and heard of engines that the person who overhauled it didn't even look at it. You can buy the kit at a local auto parts store (under the Jeep name). The priming of the oil pump is done by filling the cavity between the gears with petroleum jelly (Vasoline seems to work best). After this place the new gasket on without any kind of sealer whatsoever. You want no sealer in the cavity or any of its holes (you might want to check to make sure that all of the holes are free and clear of any kind of sealer or dirt). Again you can use compressed air if you are careful. If you have still 0 oil pressure, then perhaps it time to look at the engine. Just an after thought, take a look at the oil pickup tube and make sure that it is free of dirt and it isn't collapesed.This as added note: To prime the pump to the the engine, insert a adapted distributor shaft into the hole where the dist. goes in and use a drill to turn the protruding shaft. The gears should (the inside shaft of the oil pump) turn. It will turn fairly easy until it sucks the oil from the pan, the drill will have a noticalbe drain on it as it sucks the oil. I use a 1/2 drill on it because the shaft is larger than a standard 3/8 drill. Also make sure that the collar of the distributor fits over the oil pump shaft properly.
Appreciate the reply.Well I did get into the motor took the oil pump apart checked shaft clearance everything checked okay.I blew compressed air through the oil holes everything seems fine. Reassembled and good oil pressure rev the motor and oil drops off the scale!!!!Pulled the pan and wouldn'tyou know it oil sump plugged with cleaning debri like the 3M pads. I cleaned everything and it runs fine 30lbs oil at high idle and 65lbs cold.There was an oil leeak prior to the pan removal which I thought was a rear seal problem but after inspecting everythin looked fine. Weput the pan on checked all the bearing for damage and everything looked fine.Started motor and the oil on the rear was just pouring out now that we have pressure.Well today we pulled the tranny out flywheel and the cam bearing had been knocked out.Well we cleaned and resealed the plug with lock tight and put everything back hopefully for the last time.Well the car runs great!!!!needs a little timing and carb tweeking but no leaks and runs down the road like new.I think were going to be okay with the motor just need some paint now on the body!!!!I was starting on my Donahue but might steer back into the AMX!!!!
donsjave
12-13-2004, 05:14 PM
Glad to hear that you got the problem solved for now. It just seems that some people who try to put things together kind of get into a rush (previous person that you got the engine from) to get it done. Keep an eye on the gauge for awhile, I've been told if the pressure drops too low, it could cause more problems. The AMC service manual saids that at idle hot in gear the minimun is 17 PSI, and to me that is too low. They also said that going down the road 35 PSI is fine (I would question AMC if they were still around because even at 35, it sounds too low). I've talked to people who had rebuilt AMC motors their entire lives and they said that between 50 to 60 PSI going down the road is where you would want it. However after rebuiding my 360, the best that I can get out of it is around 40-45 PSI going down that same road. I suppose sometime this next spring, I will take another look at the pressure relief valve and replace it if necessary.
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