360 runnin HOT

[jeepcat]

I have a 360 that has a comp cam,Edelbrock intake,Edelbrock carb,headman headers.I cant get it to run cool.Can anyone offer a newby to the forum some advice?I have tried numerous thermostats,radiator caps,etc.The radiator is a newer 3 row.Once it reaches 195 degrees it never stops climbing.This is driving me crazy.Any input is greatly appreciated.

[Big Bad AMX]

First, run a fan shroud. If it's gone get another. Without a fan shroud it's a futile attempt. If you have a shroud installed and your heater hoses and radiator hoses are in good condition then you may want to get a high volume water pump (with the HV thermostat). Also Red Line makes a product called Water Wetter which helps transfer heat. And, a stainless steel underbody spoiler will help as well. Where they are positioned they will force more air into the lower part of the radiator, though it's only good if you're moving.

Side Note Tip: In a temporary emergency type situation (getting hot pulling a grade), turn off all accessories and turn your heater / heater fan on full. The extra volume of water as well as the extra cooling surface in the heater core will likely be enough to get you over the top of the hill (or get you home).


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[jeepcat]

I just pulled the water pump.All looks well but it almost "Freewheels" when you spin it opposed to the new one sitting next to it doesnt spin .It feels tighter.Make anything of this?Thanks in advance.

[304_dude]

Hi, I wonder if you have your thermistat installed in reverse??? A common mistake. You did not say if your cam is 3/4 or full race... I recommend a 4 row radiator. As for your loose turning water pump... it sound that the bearings are worn and will eventually fail and cause water to come out the bleed hole... I usually thread a ball joint grease fitting in, and give it a few pumps of Hi-temp grease. If the pump should fail water will not shoot out the hole like it usually does... Depending on conditions it may allow a limp to a rest spot.

[Big Bad AMX]

I just pulled the water pump.All looks well but it almost "Freewheels" when you spin it opposed to the new one sitting next to it doesnt spin .It feels tighter.Make anything of this?Thanks in advance.

As 304_dude stated - If it freewheels it sounds worn out. How do the impellers look?

Normally a new one won't spin freely. Check for a water stain around the seep hole - see if it's beginning to fail. I'd replace the water pump with a high-volume one.

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[donsjave]

I just put in a 4 row rad in my ride and it cooled it down by at least 25-30 degrees. The price for the rad was under 250 and I was able to reuse the old tanks both bottom and top. I also made sure that my A/C condenser was throughly cleaned out of old bugs and dirt. If you have one, it sits just in front of the rad itself. It has to be cleaned periodically so the nice cool air can come in. The other thing that I did was to install an used but good 7 blade flex fan. Some people say that old flex fans are so so... but I have always had good luck with them and they do create some noise from the blades flexing, but if you can live with that, they will always cool the old rad I also installed a 160 degree themostate although I have heard of some people running without a themo. at all and they claimed that they didn't really suffer anything out of the unsual.

[304_dude]

Hi, As for the thermastat... I thought you had already replaced it? You can run without one, but in cold areas you may never warm up the engine properly on a daily driver.

I guess most do not drive a Hi-perf race engine as a daily driver... but there are a few like me out there.

I thought a 4 row would do the trick.

As for flex fans... I have yet to see a factory flex fan survive well for performance use. They stress crack along the mount flange.

Oh, by the way... after reading my reply about the bleed hole, I need to clarify when to add the Zirk fitting. You are to do this with a new water pump.

The reasoning for it is back in the 60's most water pumps had them, to lube them up time to time. I found twice as many on my 65 Riv compaired to those found on modern cars. I think it is a way for consumers to replace parts sooner than never.

[donsjave]

Yea, dude you are right. For performance they can crack at the mount, however if you keep an eye on them, they normally will work. The way I do it is that everytime I have to crawl under the car I take a flash light with me (have to anyway) take a quick look at the fan anyway. I kind of run the drags 3 or 4 times during the summer and then hotdog it home. Do I beat on the engine a little, yep I do now. With a 401 in it, it can take some of the abuse (higher revs then what I use to do to the 360) and so far haven't had any serious problems with the fan. Can you provide some additional information of the zirt and where it actually goes. I remember them on some of the Chrysler products that my Dad use to drive. (63 Plymouth, 68 &69 Dodges etc).

[ChevelleSSLS6]

swap in an electric fan (or fans) from late model cars, nab em from the junkyard cheap.

That's what I plan on doing with mine, once I get a job...